Mozambique – Easter Weekend
Mozambique is a gorgeous tropical paradise of a country. The coastline is long, and palm-fringed beaches define lovely bays sheltering colourful coral reefs. But like any paradise – there’s the odd rotten apple and even a serpent or two. A hideous twenty-year war when the country was used as a pawn between the superpowers, and neighbouring countries, was followed by devastating cyclones and floods. Mozambique still has a way to go but it’s bouncing back. If there was an Oscar ceremony for countries, Mozambique would win the award for resilience and grace under pressure
The beautiful beaches are fully operational, there are dive operators almost everywhere the reefs are easily accessible, and accommodation options range from backpackers and camping sites to five star extravaganzas. Most of the towns and cities are picking up slowly and there is a certain shabby chic touch to un-maintained art deco buildings decaying in style. The streets are lined with flowering trees and vibrant markets and small businesses. The main reasons most people visit Mozambique, though are to dive, fish, sun tan or indulge in yummy seafood. Mozambique is renowned for its succulent swimming prawns – although by the time most people see them they’re swimming in peri-peri sauce. (In case you’re wondering, swimming prawns are distinct from those rather squooshy things that hide out in the mud – and they taste muucch better.)
Ponta do Ouro and Ponta Malongane, together just called Ponta and just across the border from South Africa, are very popular diving, fishing and surfing resorts. In the 1970s Maputo was they playground of southern Africa – balmy nights, Portuguese wine, prawns by the bucketful and wild Latin-African rhythms made this a party destination of note. It’s coming – with a bit more style and a lot more relaxed dress code.
In Maputo Bay is Inhaca Island – a little tropical paradise all of its own. Mangrove forests, lovely beaches, a good hotel, great diving and snorkelling, a small low key marine museum and a small village give it a special holiday air. There are good beach destinations all up the coast, but the more popular areas include the area around Inhambane, the Bazaruto Archipelago and, in the last few years, the far north, near Pemba.
You can drive into Mozambique from South Africa and the roads, while not exactly pristine, are passable in a two-wheel drive vehicle. The bus service is adequate but only for relatively adventurous travellers. There are international airports at Maputo, Vilankulos (near the Bazaruto Archipelago) and Pemba.
Note: If you are planning to travel to Mozambique please be aware that this region is malarial. Consult your doctor or travel clinic for advice and refer to our article on malaria.
12 day Northern Mozambique Dive Adventure
What you can expect from this 12 day Northern Mozambique Dive Adventure:
Explore Northern Mozambique, almost untouched by tourists – a remote and beautiful paradise. There are 27 islands (the Querimba Archipelago) between Pemba and the Rio Rovuma, the river that forms the border with Tanzania. This area remains one of the last undiscovered jewels of Africa.
Discover some of the most exciting and undiscovered dive sites anywhere on the planet on this safari tour in Mozambique. Visit islands with pristine turquoise waters, swim in water averaging a perfect 28 degrees all year round. Catch sight of Turtles, Sharks, Dolphins, Whales and amazing species of fish. Perhaps you’ll catch a glimpse of the green Turtle coming to lay her eggs on the beach.
Voyage to Ibo Island (part of the archipelago), formerly the capital of Cabo Delgado, the Northern province. Ibo’s fantastic architecture and history rank closely to Ilha de Mozambique but its atmosphere and rustic charm are unique. This is a hands on Adventure where it must be understood that facilities are rustic, but the diving unrivalled!’
Day 1: Johannesburg
Most clients arrive a day or so prior to the official start day. This is to give them plenty of time to enjoy all that Johannesburg has to offer. Any accommodation or activities can be organised that you may require if you want to arrive early or stay on in Africa after your safari tour in Mozambique ends.
On the first day of the Northern Mozambique Dive Adventure (Day 1), you will be transferred to the hotel in Johannesburg. The Cullinan Hotel is located 5 minutes from the airport – 100 North Rand Road, Bardene, Boksberg North. Cullinan Hotel has comfortable rooms with luxury bathrooms and separate shower. There is a TV in the room. Available is a cocktail bar, restaurant and access to a Gym on the premises.
Please note the following things to bring with you for your transfer to Pemba, Mozambique:- your passport with relevant visa’s and evidence of medical and personal insurance. Please also bring the local payment. This must be paid to the tour leader on arrival in Pemba and must be paid in US$ Cash. A single entry visa is required for Mozambique.
Days 2 & 3: Pemba
This morning you will be transferred to the airport for your flight to Pemba, where a representative will meet you. Please note that this flight is via Maputo and Beira and you will be required to change planes and clear customs in Maputo. Upon arrival in Pemba, you will be transferred to the Nautilus Hotel complex, or similar, situated right on the wonderful ‘Wimbe’ (meaning waves) beach, a short meeting will be held to brief you for the rest of your safari tour in Mozambique.
A PADI dive school and other water sports are available at the hotel. The reef is within striking distance of Pemba’s perfect beach, allowing safe swimming, snorkeling, kayaking and diving. The Nautilus Hotel has a number of sea- facing, air-conditioned and thatched bungalows with 2 bedrooms, and a shared bathroom. Day 3 is at your leisure to enjoy the beach, explore Pemba or partake in optional water sports or dives.
There is a restaurant at the Nautilus, which offers various seafood dishes as well as beef and chicken. In town there are various restaurants to choose from. At the time of writing the new Wimbe Beach hotel, Pemba had just been completed with good options for meals and optional activities. Ask your guide for an update with full details.
Pemba is a developing tourism destination which forms part of the charm of Mozambique and this undiscovered region, however facilities are therefore basic. Nautilus Hotel (or similar) Wimbe Beach, Pemba. Breakfast. All other meals to your own account. Wimbe Beach, Pemba.
Days 4, 5 & 6: Ibo Island
Today you head for the mysterious and historical Ibo Island. Weather dependent you will cross over directly to Ibo Island via motorized boat from Pemba bay. Alternatively you will travel north via vehicle through awesome thick pristine bush and villages to the coastal village of Quissanga. Here you board traditional dhows bound for Ibo Island, and the WildLife Adventures private waterfront camp.
Your camp is situated on the waterfront and has warm showers and is very close to the main fort. Explore an ancient island where Muslim traders operated in the 15th century, before it became a major slave market and trading post for the Portuguese in the 18th Century. Historic buildings, 3 forts, and a beautiful old Catholic Church still remain.
Ibo provides a chance to interact with the amazing island people and observe their unique island culture. Traditional silversmiths still operate from the main fort, and you are free to wander about this beautiful island and explore. Day 5 can be spent at your leisure or partake in some optional activities.
During days 5 and 6 you will enjoy 3 included dives in the waters surrounding historic Ibo. Optional activities include dives, crab and fishing expeditions, mangrove excursions, snorkeling, swimming, and historical dhow cruises. Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner on all days. Camping (WildLife Adventures Private camp) Rua Bella Vista.
Days 7,8 & 9: Island Hopping in the archipelago
Climb aboard the 17th meter teak motorized boat for a dive safari exploring the islands and coral coast around Ibo. Traveling through Mangroves tree’s you will step back in time and observe a way of life that has not changed for thousands of years.
Bad Driving, Duck Hunting & Ponta Diving
Scuba Adventures Mozambique was formed purely as a result of a driving navigation error and a duck hunting expedition:
The story starts some 10 years ago, in Maputo, on the verandah of the Costa do Sol restaurant.
We were sitting having a beer, thoroughly pissed off with diving in Mozambique, and trying to find out the quickest route back to Sodwana.
I had spent the previous evening in the Polana Hotel, paying for 1 night’s accommodation more than my monthly bond repayment in SA.
We had also just aborted, long before schedule, a disastrous diving trip to Inhaca Island, marred by boats not working, $50.00 air fills, and hung over skippers who only launched when they got out of bed late and felt like it.
All we wanted to do was get back to Sodwana as soon as possible and enjoy some good, old-fashioned South African diving – comfortable, reliable and organized.
Attempting to reach the Kosi border post, which we heard had just opened, we took a wrong turn on the sand track which was then the “main road” down from Maputo, and which eventually brought us to the resort at Malongane, which had apparently also only just opened.
That night sitting in the pub and talking to Dave, the original dive operator there, I realized this was the same place I had heard about 15 years prior, on a duck hunt in Underberg, in the Natal Midlands.
One of the hunters, a very distinguished gentleman well into his seventies, noticed my dive watch and asked me if I was a diver. When I confirmed this, he told me he also used to dive and proceeded to relate to me his dive exploits and expeditions to the Red Sea, Barrier Reef and Mozambique.
It was an education and a truly remarkable story, especially if you consider that 30 – 40 years ago the dive industry was in its infancy and the domain of a few hardcore “Rambo’s” with largely homemade equipment.
Merely to dive in those days must have been a daunting undertaking. To travel the world to remote dive destinations that to day most of us can only dream about, an even greater and more noteworthy achievement.
During the conversation, I remember asking him which he considered the best dive site.
He gave me the name, which I had never heard before, and which I promptly discarded.
He explained that it was on the Mozambique coast just 5 kilometers North of the Kosi Bay Border, and urged me if at all possible to visit it – with the war it was obviously not possible.
Sitting in the bar with Dave that humid Mozambican night the realization suddenly struck – this place II had mistakenly arrived at, and the name I had heard so many years ago, were the same – Malongane.
With the Old mans recommendations in my head, and hoping to experience what he had experienced so many years before, I decided to put the Sodwana dash on hold, and booked on a dive with Dave. The next day dawned a typical Mozambique Summers day – hot, calm and with the sea like the proverbial lake.
Our first dive was to Riana’s Reef, aptly named after parts on the anatomy of a well-endowed lady DM that bore a similarity to the round coral reef clumps.
On descending it was immediately apparent the old man had not exaggerated. – This was definitely world class diving.
With our enthusiasm rekindled, and thoughts of Sodwana rapidly fading, we booked for the afternoon dive.
It was just as amazing as the morning dive. Towards the end of the dive I noticed a buddy pair had drifted far from the rest of the group, and were swimming over the sand. I swam over to call them and in the distance, rising from the sand, saw a huge dark shadow.
On closer inspection I found it was an isolated clump of Reef, encrusted with soft sponges and corals, and with more nudibranchs and egg cowries than I had evert seen before in one place.
A huge Brindle Bass skulked in a side arch, which, after finally swimming away, revealed a chimney column through the center of the reef. A pair of potato bass eyed us inquisitively from the opposite side, whilst their more colorful cousins, yellow belly and lyre tail rock cod slipped shyly between the ledges. Brightly colored tropical reef fish formed a living, shimmering halo over the entire outcrop.
At least 4 species of morays protruded from the cracks, mouths agape as if in shocked surprise at my rude invasion of this serene setting.
On my ascent a small black fin shark swam by, adding a dramatic ending to what must be one of the most exiting days of my life. (We called the site then Cathedral – regular Ponta divers today know it as 3 Sisters)
The day’s events made me start thinking of ways and opportunities to expand my dive travel business to Southern Mozambique.
After the holiday – with each dive as memorable as the previous – I was convinced that this area had a huge, unexploited tourism and business potential.
To cut a very long story very short as they say, and after much heartache, effort and money, Scuba Adventures Mozambique commenced operating from a reed hut at the back of the Motel do Mar, in Ponta do Ouro. .
Ponta in those days basically consisted of the Motel, Campsite, and 2 shops. The local population was a fraction of the size it is today, and very few people had skills, or could speak English.
The area had been ravaged, as had the whole of Mozambique, by 26 long years of bloody civil war, and which devastated this once vibrant holiday town. We found rifle grenades stuck in trees, and heard of landmine detonations in the village
There was a pioneering atmosphere then, a “wild west” feeling that was exciting and almost tangible.
As Ponta’s magnificent dive sites became known, and the pot holed road on the South African side to the border tarred, so did the influx of tourists increase. The local population grew dramatically and learnt English and new skills. Young people learnt to drive and repair vehicles, clean dive equipment and boats, and operate compressors. The average wages increased nearly ten fold. To support the growing demands of these tourists, and burgeoning population, infrastructure developed, – a shopping complex was built, with a bank, a supermarket, beach shops and Restaurant.
To day, some 10 years on we have all the trappings that come with civilization – telephones, electricity, trade unions and taxes.
Yet for all of that it still retains its charm and beauty, a harmonious combination of exciting, vibrant Africa, and continental, café’ Portugal.
And of course the world class diving that attracted the old man here so many years ago.
To day Scuba Adventures is a PADI Gold Palm resort and is one of the biggest dive charter companies in Mozambique.
It now operates from both a large new permanent dive base at the Motel do Mar, as well as from its newly upgraded and renovated Dive Camp inside the Ponta campsite.
These 2 dive operations allow divers to choose from a variety of accommodation ranging from self-catering tents, to campsite chalets, and fully serviced Motel Cabanas, complete with en-suite bathrooms. For family groups we have holiday homes available for hire.
Because of this huge infrastructure, we are able to offer the most competitive rates and dive packages at Ponta – like they say in the classics – we will beat any price.
Our booking office, Africa Scuba Travel, is an official booking office in South Africa, for both the Motel do Mar, Campsite, Campsite Chalets and private holiday homes, so booking for any option is as simple as picking up the phone, or sending a mail.
Our state of the art dive boats, and highly experienced skippers, shuttle divers daily to all the magnificent off shore reefs whose names have now become household words in the diving fraternity.
Experienced DM,s accompany every dive, and the utmost priority is placed on safety and conservation awareness.
for those that don’t want the hassle of cooking, we offer affordable catering packages in conjunction with the Fishmonger Restaurant, Ponta’s premier seafood restaurant and grill.
Our large air-conditioned Beach and Dive shop supplies all the essentials, batteries, film, slops, sun tan lotion, scuba equipment spares, and the complete range of Ponta’s famous dive site souvenir T shirts.
To day when I look at the development at Ponta, and my business in particular, I often think of that old man I met so long ago. I had spent no more than a winter morning with him, cold, miserable, huddleling in the undergrowth alongside a misty dam, waiting for ducks to fly and die overhead, all the while him confiding with me his exotic, tropical dreams.
I do not remember his name, but I like to think of him in that ultimate, long, great dive in the sky, looking down, and smiling to himself at what an amazing chain of events his few words initiated, and the profound effect it had on my life. I found my exotic, tropical dream.
Johannesburg to Pemba Mozambique by road
All would-be travellers to Mozambique are advised to read Justin Fox’s book “With Both Hands Waving” (Kwela books 2002). Apart from many useful observations about how, and how not to travel in Mozambique, the book includes copious historical notes. At the time that journey was done the smart tar road running west of Gorongoza crater had not been completed.
Driving is on the left (except when dodging potholes).
R1,00 = MTN3,10. The standard note is MTN100 = R32 (about). Most tourist prices are quoted in US dollars ($1,00=MTN25), to which the metacal is linked.
THE MAPUTO ROUTE: On our first visit in 2003 we decided to avoid border posts and travel from Johannesburg through Komatipoort and Maputo and then the long 2500 kilometer potholed road North. 4-wheel drive is quite unnecessary, but the potholes smashed our front shock absorbers. The road is still not too good, but at least the terrible 100 kilometers between Rio Save and Nchope has been fixed.
THE ZIMBABWE ROUTE:
The best and shortest road is the 600 kilometers through Zimbabwe via Masvinga to Forbes Post at Mutare; then down the Beira corridor through Chimoio, turn left at Nchope and then on to the new 300 km Gorongosa tar road to the Zambesi ferry at Caia. Transit visitors to Zimbabwe may carry extra fuel which has been declared. In 2007 we experienced numerous unpleasant road blocks in Zimbabwe. The latest unsettled election results can only make matters worse. So, sad to say, the Zimbabwe route should be avoided until things become stable again.
THE ZAMBESI FERRY:
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The main obstacle on the road to Pemba used to be the Zambesi ferry, but two superb new ferries have been commissioned since March 2005 and the long delays now seem to be a thing of the past. The ferry runs from 07h00 to 14h30, with a one hour break inbetween for lunch. Once across the ferry there is 200 kms of good tar to Namacurra. From there to just past Alto Malocue be prepared for about 150 kms of bad detours and potholed tar. The rest of the road through Nampula and onward to Pemba and Nacala is good tar (apart from the occasional stretch of potholes).
ACCOMMODATION:
For accommodation there is a good bush camp 30 kms South of the ferry (contact James White +258-82-3016436/ 3027804). With an early start (it pays to be ahead in the queue when the ferry starts operating at 07h00) one can make it from there in one day to Nampula where we can recommend Residencial Recol on the main road on the right when entering town from the West. Justin Fox reported well of the Hotel Tropicale in Nampula, but we could not find it. It always helps to check the Lonely Planet guide to Mozambique. Before entering Zimbabwe it is a good strategy to stay overnight near Mussina (we can recommend the Elephant Inn and its restaurant some 3 kms South of Mussina), make a very early start through Beit Bridge and then do the 1000kms to Caia and the ferry in one day. If you are doing the Maputo road stay overnight at Komatipoort. Get through the border posts early in the day and expect a slow run through the traffic around Maputo. Then head the slow narrow road north-east. There is a good campsite with cabanas and a restaurant at Mexixe overlooking the bay towards Inhambane. A very early start the next day from Mexixe will enable you to cover the 1000kms to Caia in one day.
Carry plenty of food. There are no grocery stores like Spar and Pick n Pay. You may need to make supper in the middle of nowhere (like at a crowded ferry). The local white bread is excellent and cheap. Mocuba pineapples are the very best and cost MTN25 at the roadside (May 2007). Bananas come in 3 sizes (MTN10 a bunch): little yellows (the best), big yellows (OK); and big greens which never go yellow and are for frying to taste just like potato chips; chicken at MTN30 is bought alive trussed upside down by the legs (“frango” for dinner means cutting a throat and plucking the feathers). The other surprise for those accustomed to Western travel facilities, is that there are no public camping sites like in South Africa. A spade and a bamboo mat screen make toileting a bit easier (there is always an audience). For a bed the Mozambiquans roll out a reed mat under the truck and sleep right there next to the road. In high risk areas (like big towns and the Beira and Nacala corridors) one just sleeps in the vehicle sitting upright. After one night of renting an expensive room with blocked toilets, bed bugs, and no water in the shower, a night in the vehicle can start to look like the lesser evil. But there can be some pleasant surprises: when we were stuck overnight at the Zobue border post on our way out of Malawi a beer shopping excursion to the local shebeen produced platters of fresh fried trout with savory rice (yum!).
Mozambique Dhow Trip May 2009
All would-be travellers to Mozambique are advised to read Justin Fox’s book “With Both Hands Waving” (Kwela books 2002). Apart from many useful observations about how, and how not to travel in Mozambique, the book includes copious historical notes. At the time that journey was done the smart tar road running west of Gorongoza crater had not been completed. Driving is on the left (except when dodging potholes). R1,00 = MTN3,10. The standard note is MTN100 = R32 (about). Most tourist prices are quoted in US dollars ($1,00=MTN25), to which the metacal is linked. THE MAPUTO ROUTE: On our first visit in 2003 we decided to avoid border posts and travel from Johannesburg through Komatipoort and Maputo and then the long 2500 kilometer potholed road North. 4-wheel drive is quite unnecessary, but the potholes smashed our front shock absorbers. The road is still not too good, but at least the terrible 100 kilometers between Rio Save and Nchope has been fixed. THE ZIMBABWE ROUTE: Zimbabwe road vista The best and shortest road is the 600 kilometers through Zimbabwe via Masvinga to Forbes Post at Mutare; then down the Beira corridor through Chimoio, turn left at Nchope and then on to the new 300 km Gorongosa tar road to the Zambesi ferry at Caia. Transit visitors to Zimbabwe may carry extra fuel which has been declared. In 2007 we experienced numerous unpleasant road blocks in Zimbabwe. The latest unsettled election results can only make matters worse. So, sad to say, the Zimbabwe route should be avoided until things become stable again. For More info – click here
Mozambique Dhow Trip May 2009
The African travel industry is packed full of unlikely characters and lifestyle searchers who occasionally find themselves camped out in odd corners of the continent. Sometimes they ponder schemes and ideas from a local beach bar until the money runs out, and sometimes they get deeply involved in the local venture travel scene, and successfully complete a translocation. Mozambique has always been a popular destination for beach combers and lifestyle travelers. In 1994 it was an open book after 30 years of civil war, and with a lot of South African money, and the ideas of plenty of itinerate and inspirational characters, it has grown into one of the most sought after beach and coastal destinations in Africa. The Only Way To See Mozambique The beach towns of Xai Xai, Inhambane, Ncala, and in particular Vilanculos, have become magnets for the kinds of professional drifters that have since come to form the vanguard of the local tourist industry. Among these is to be found Kerry Butler, a Kiwi professional traveler turned tour entrepreneur, who now owns and runs the successful Mozaic Travel Agency out of Maputo, and who can always be relied upon to put together an excellent trip. A few years ago I joined Kerry and a few friends on an impromptu trip to bring down a newly purchased dhow from Beira to Vilanculos. There it was to join the fleet of the then fledgling Sailaway dhow safari outfit owned an run by another South African beachcomber of dubious pedigree, but impeccable vision, Dave Kimber. It was an impromptu trip in every sense of the word, and in fact turned into a bit of an epic. However despite rampant sea sickness, some teething problems with engines and ablutions, we drifted into the idyllic waters of the archipelago islands without major mishap and with one of the most excellent of sea voyages behind us.
Ncala to Vilanculos Dhow Trip
This year Kerry and Dave are planning to sail a couple of newly commissioned dhows from Ncala in northern Mozambique back to the Archipelago, and are offering a few places to a select group of travelers to join them on another unique and once in a lifetime journey. The 12 meter ‘Samara’ and ‘Wahina’ will both set off at the beginning of May 2009 on a journey of about 1350km down the coast of Mozambique. This is an epic trip for these small craft, and the voyage will be as unique an adventure as anyone can hope for in a lifetime.
The sailing time will be between 19 to 24 days, with Mozaic providing an expedition compliment of tents and mess gear, with all food provided via a food kitty. Various towns and sites will be visited, including Ilha de Mozambique, Angoche, the Primeiras and Segundas Archipelago, Beira, the Bartholomeu Diaz peninsula and the Bazaruto Archipelago.
Six Places Available
There are just six places available for this trip. Sailaway will be providing the craft and the expert support staff, and a generally impromptu and friendly atmosphere can be expected among the friends and well wishers of Sailaway and Mozaic who will be lending their skills and expertise to the expedition.
From South Africa
If you are in South Africa, or you are planning a trip to Southern Africa at this time, this is an ideal opportunity to stitch a little side journey to your trip. Travel from South Africa to Mozambique is easy, and Mozaic can book and arrange any transit requirements you might have.
This is an opportunity for a wholly authentic, one-off trip down the length of the beautiful Mozambique coast. Get in touch with me today about prices and details and lets get you ‘sailing away with Captain Dave’ on a Mozambique adventure of a lifetime…!
Mozambique Airports, Mozambique Flights
Maputo, Mozambique, 13 Aug – Aeroportos de Moçambique (AdM) has launched a tender to undertake further modernization and enlargement of the Quelimane airport in Zambezia province, Noticias newspaper has reported. AdM communication director Sandra Ganancio said the Quelimane airport has registered considerable increase in traffic and its infrastructures are consequently in need of modernization to face new demands, including better safety and comfort for passengers. In parallel, with a contract singed in February with the Phil/SEMCO consortium, AdM will invest US$ 8 million in resurfacing the main runway at the airport, as well as build two taxi ways and aircraft parking bays. This work is scheduled to last 17 months. This stage of the modernization will also give the airport a fence, improve communications, build new power generation sources and provide new airport vehicles and fire trucks. A new departure lounge will also be built from the existing arrivals and departure lounges. The contractor selected for the airport upgrade will finish the work in time for the 2010 World Cup in South Africa. Mozambique estimates that 150,000 tourists will visit the country during the World Cup. As part of preparations for the tournament, Mozambique is modernizing ten airports, renovating the Mozambique airline fleet of its national carrier and also improving rail links to South Africa and Swaziland.
A Roger Horrocks Tribute
A few years ago, I arranged a weekend freediving seminar in Cape Town, with my aim being to get a core group of divers together who were interested in the pursuit of apnea, and the lifestyle of freediving, as opposed to just the spearfishing side. I am a spearo myself, but have always seen a part of this silent sport which I was certain would attract a whole new group of divers who were otherwise not interested in hunting. During this weekend, I was introduced to a former Natalian, now resident in Cape Town, by the name of Roger Horrocks. Over the past few years, I have got to know Roger well, as a dive buddy, as a brilliant and hugely experienced freediver, photographer and marine adventurer who continues to inspire those around him with his drive and belief in this blue playground we call the ocean.
Roger was always going to find the sea playing a role in his life, having spent much of his early childhood holidaying in the Transkei and crayfishing with his dad. He was a lifeguard with Durban Surf while at high school and the coast of Natal was an area that continued to feed his passion for the ocean. The seed which would turn Roger to freediving was planted with a television programme which featured a well known spearo. Roger is not completely sure, but it may have been the legendary, and still active, Tommy Botha.
At 19 years of age, while at University, Roger started spearfishing with Rory O’Connor, a Durban University spearo, through whom he met Cuan Cronje, who played a huge role in his early diving. From 1992 to 1995 he spearfished hard while studying towards his Masters Degree, and won the South African University Championships before going on to become a member of the Natal Provincial ‘A’ team, which won the South African Spearfishing Nationals in 1995, where he placed 3rd overall.
Roger has special memories of his spearfishing days in Natal, and perhaps the most vivid remains his first experience of ‘blue water’ diving on Aliwal Shoal, 5 km out to sea. Deep freediving, irrespective of your fitness level, requires self belief and discipline, and in 1992, Roger hit 43 meters with a speargun in the Canyon at Vidal, which confirmed to those who dived with him that he had potential as a freediver.In life however, with the good, comes the bad. Roger has experienced the dark side of the sport, knowing several divers who have died due to shallow water blackout, one of whom, Toshak Bell, was on his boat. Toshak was a talented young diver who experienced a shallow water blackout while hunting Salmon in 30 meters of water. Roger pauses as he recalls that day, and as difficult as it was, the incident etched lessons deep within him, lessons which underscored the need for discipline and caution at all times, and the wisdom of diving well within your limits when not in a competition scenario. Although not active anymore as a competitive spearfisherman, Roger occasionally competes in local freedive competitions as a way of keeping his breathold strong for his underwater photography work, and recently set a new South African record of 89m’s in the Dynamic No Fins category.
After moving to Cape Town in 1997 to pursue a career in interactive advertising, Roger hung up his fins for a while and focused his athletic energies on adventure racing , paddling and mountain biking. But the sea is a demanding mistress, and as with many novel ideas, out of the necessity to get wet the concept of ‘Marine Trekking’ was born. Roger grins as he remembers the moment..”It was so simple, so obvious – take polar trekking and extreme adventuring, and mix it with my terrain, and my expertise, and hey, marine trekking…a no brainer!”. Marine Trekking involves fining off shore, pulling a converted fishing sled with everything you need to survive, and beaching each evening to find shelter and sleeping place. Roger teamed up with his good friend and old spearfishing partner Mitch Rankin, and together they ‘marine trekked’ 100km from Inhaca Island to Ponta Da Oura in Mozambique over an eight day period.
Most Natal divers are hard pushed to praise Cape diving, but when conditions are ‘on’ says Roger, this land of kelp, cold water and upwelling offers superb diving. His eyes light up again, as his mind moves to the deep. “Once you get your head around the cold, the water around Cape Town offer endless potential for epic exploratory diving and underwater photography.” In addition, the deep water in the tuna fishing grounds off the canyon holds a particular attraction for Roger, and he is also quick to suggest that divers need to consider travelling further afield, to areas such as Struisbaai and Arniston, which offer offer world class diving when the conditions are right. “South Africa as a whole is unparalleled in the world in terms of the marine diversity and abundance that you can experience, all in a relatively small geographic area. One day you can diving with mako’s and tuna off cape Point, the very next you can be freediving with the tiger sharks on Aliwal Shoal, and the very next day you can be in Ponta Da Oura, southern Mozambique, diving with Zambezi sharks on the Pinnacles. And on top of that there is a real chance of seeing turtles, whales, whale sharks, dolphins, mantas rays – the potential is truly mind blowing!” he says.
Scuba Mozambique: http://www.scubamozambique.com/
Mozambique Travel Tips
Weather, Food & Water
SUMMER: October – March
WINTER: April – September
April to September:
Cool and dry, a little rain is received in these months (less than 50mm a month for Maputo) and daytime temperatures on the coast range around 24° – 27° C, while in the interior temperatures are generally cooler (around 5° C lower). You can expect around 8 hours of sunshine a day with around 60% – 70% humidity for Maputo, the further north you travel you can expect these figures to increase. This is the best time to visit mozambique….
December to March:
Hot, sticky and rainy with electrical storms usually in the afternoons, preceded by humid build-ups in the mornings. Rainfall of well over 200mm a month can be received. Temperatures generally range from 27° – 31° C while again it’s less humid and cooler in the interior. The northern coastline areas tend to be hotter still, sometimes soaring into the high 30°’s C.
Please note that most Island lodges close over February as this is generally cyclone/ hurricane season….
Best months to visit:
The cooler dry months April to September to benefit from the best wildlife viewing and excellent weather. November to December is normally best for birding activities. Remember summers are humid to very humid (tropical) in the north
The southern beaches can be crowded during South African school holidays (Dec, Jan, early April, July, late September) so avoid those periods if you can.
When travelling in Mozambique what to pack in you suitcase can be quite confusing, below are the basics. Generally, casual comfortable clothing is suitable throughout the year.
The most practical items to pack are: remembering that Mozambique is a warm destination
» Light cotton tops and cotton trousers/shorts in summer, hat/ cap and light shoes
» Long-sleeved blouses/shirts for game drives/ boat cruises, which will protect you from mosquitoes and the sun
» Safari trousers, jeans or casual pants for evenings and cooler days. A fleece or sweater is required for those cool winter evening and mornings
» Swimwear, snorkel, mask, fins (most lodges have these for hire or included in daily rate – if you have you own you are more than » welcome to bring them)
» A hat, sunglasses and sunscreen (a tanning lotion and a high factor sunscreen for your face, neck, feet and hands
» Sandals, especially to protect feet against razor clams on Bazaruto Archipelago
» Comfortable walking shoes, sandals for when swimming in the sea as razor clams can cause nasty damage to your feet
» Camera film, extra memory cards and batteries, these are near impossible to find in Mozambique and should they be available they will cost you a arm and a leg. Remember not to process your film in Mozambique rather trust your holidays photos to your photo lab when you get home or in South Africa.
Do not drink tap water unless it has been boiled, filtered, or chemically disinfected.
Do not drink unbottled beverages or drinks with ice. Do not eat fruits or vegetables unless they have been peeled or cooked. Avoid cooked foods that are no longer piping hot. Cooked foods that have been left at room temperature are particularly hazardous. Avoid unpasteurized milk and any products that might have been made from unpasteurized milk, such as ice cream. Avoid food and beverages obtained from street vendors. Do not eat raw or undercooked meat or fish. Some types of fish may contain poisonous biotoxins even when cooked. Barracuda in particular should never be eaten. Other fish that may contain toxins include red snapper, grouper, amberjack, and sea bass.
All travelers should bring along an antibiotic and an antidiarrheal drug to be started promptly if significant diarrhea occurs, defined as three or more loose stools in an 8-hour period or five or more loose stools in a 24-hour period, especially if accompanied by nausea, vomiting, cramps, fever or blood in the stool. Antibiotics which have been shown to be effective include ciprofloxacin (Cipro), levofloxacin (Levaquin), rifaximin (Xifaxan), or azithromycin (Zithromax). Either loperamide (Imodium) or diphenoxylate (Lomotil) should be taken in addition to the antibiotic to reduce diarrhea and prevent dehydration.
If diarrhea is severe or bloody, or if fever occurs with shaking chills, or if abdominal pain becomes marked, or if diarrhea persists for more than 72 hours, medical attention should be sought.
Visa Requirements
Mozambicans and South Africans will no longer be required to apply for visas if their stay in each other’s country does not exceed 30 days.
HOWEVER, for all NON-S.A. PASSPORT HOLDERS – Visas are still required. The onus is therefore upon International Clients to ensure that passports are valid for 6/months in order to obtain their Visas, either in South Africa prior to departure for Mozambique, OR when entering Mozambique at the border or airports. (please ensure that there is sufficient space in passports for the inclusion of the Visa.
You will need a passport, valid for at least 6 months after your return from Mozambique. Drivers must carry a valid drivers’ license, the original registration papers of the vehicle, and trailer registration papers (if applicable). Compulsory Mozambican third party insurance must be purchased at the border. A letter of permission is needed if driving a vehicle registered in someone else’s name, and it helps to have this stamped at your local police station, before entering Mozambique. The law requires you to carry your passport at all times. Make at least one photocopy of your passport and all other important documents, and store them in a safe place, in case you lose the originals.
Anyone may acquire a tourist visa on arrival at the airport or land border. As of January 2006 this costs USD 25.00 and takes 30-60 minutes. You can also acquire it in the Mozambican embassy of your own country. At the South African land border (Lebombo/Ressano Garcia) you can choose the currency in which you want to pay your visa. Paying in Metical is slightly cheaper than in Rand.
Import Duties
Visitors to Mozambique may import for personal use, free of duty and tax:
400 cigarettes,
1 litre of spirits,
3 bottles of wine and other goods (including groceries) to the value of US $ 200. Firearms are prohibited.
If you take in expensive items, like a laptop computer, you will be given a receipt which you will have to present on your return. Other goods might attract import duties, if it is thought that you wish to resell them in Mozambique.
other goods – R500
Borders
BORDER POST FORMALITIES
You must report to the immigration office with your passports and vehicle registration papers in hand.
On the South African side (Komatiepoort): A Custom’s Official will give you a gate pass and this is to be taken to the immigration office. Fill in your vehicle / goods export form and then get your passport stamped. Hand in gate pass when driving out of South Africa.
Mozambique side (Ressano Garcia): As you go through the gate you will be handed another gate pass which is needed for Immigration, Customs – road permit and Customs Inspector. Get your passport stamped – You have to pay R12.00 per person; take out the compulsory 3rd party insurance (R 120.00 per vehicle); buy the compulsory temporary import permit for all vehicles – including boat trailers (payable in meticais Mt 30 000 (approx. R15.00). Proceed out of the office to a customs inspector who will then inspect your vehicle and contents. After signing the gate pass and if you have nothing to declare, on exiting the gate you hand the gate pass in.
There is a bank at the border should you not have meticais or else there are always people selling meticais at the Border on the SA side – we have found it to be safe to buy from them. Just make sure that you get the right amount of money for what you are exchanging – ask them what exchange they are offering – at the moment it is about 2800 to 3300 Meticais to R1.00. To make your life easier, take off the thousands and you can work on a 2.8 / 3.3 to 1 ratio (this will quite probably have changed by the time you get to the border. For example at an exchange rate of 3000, R 500.00 should get you MT 1 500 000.
PAST THE BORDER
The Maputo corridor is now complete, making it a good highway all the way from Gauteng. There is a total of toll fees of R 83.50 in South Africa and Mt 78 500.00 (about R 24.50) in Mozambique – (each way). You can pay the toll fees in Mozambique with Rands, US dollars or Meticais.
The road going north from Maputo (EN 1 – National Road #1) is generally a good tar road – The road from Maputo to Inhambane is slightly potholed (nothing serious, but be careful).
Traveling after dark is NOT advisable, as there are no streetlights and sometimes the other vehicles on the road have inadequate lighting. If you do travel after dark, take it easy, especially when there are oncoming cars. Some resorts require 4 x 4, or at least a vehicle with good clearance such as a Venture or bakkie. These roads are thick sandy tracks, so a normal car could get bogged down.
Petrol costs around R 6.50 / litre. It gets more expensive the further north you go. It’s advisable to fill up at the garage just before the border. There are filling stations in Maputo, Macia, Xai-Xai, Quissico, Inhambane, Maxixe, Massinga, Vilanculos and Inhassoro. For those going to the resorts south of Maputo – Fill up at Kosi Bay, as there is not always petrol at Ponta Do Ouro. Diesel is about the same price in Mozambique as it is in SA (sometimes even cheaper). We suggest you fill up at the BP in Xai-Xai as the filling station at Quissico is not always reliable. Do not get stuck without petrol!!
BORDER POST TIMES:
Komatipoort (Ressano Garcia) – open every day of the year between 07h00 – 19h00. During the busy December period (generally from 20 December to 03rd January) this border stays open 24-hours.
Namaacha/Lomaacha (Swaziland/Mozambique) – opens at 07h00, closes at 18h00.
Oshoek/Ngwenya (South Africa / Swaziland) – opens at 07h00, closes at 20h00.
Kosi Bay/Ponta d’ Ouro (Faranzela ) – opens at 08h00, closes at 17h00.
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